During embroidery classes, I’m often asked which embroidery stitch is my favourite. The answer is always back stitch because it’s practical and decorative but I have around ten stitches that I use regularly in my work.

“You don’t need to know hundreds of stitches. But you need to use the ones you do know well!”

Constance Howard, textile art pioneer

I always tell my students that you don’t need to be a walking stitch glossary, if you learn between eight and ten stitches really well you can create lots of exciting embroideries. I’ve been embroidering for over thirty years and I know ten stitches really well, these are the stitches in use in my work and teach in some of my classes…

Running stitch back stitch, stem stitch, chain stitch, blanket stitch, feather stitch, satin stitch, lazy daisy, French knots and seed stitch. Once you have learned the basics of these stitches you can start to experiment with different ways of using them.

Below are some images of workshop samples. The first images shows all the stitches I use in workshops in a mini sampler. The second shows applique combined with some hand stitches like back stitch and stem stitch to define the edges of the fabric design. The third shows chain stitch and back stitch to create a geometric design illuminated with an LED soft circuit.

I thought I’d share some images and the stitches I’ve used in some if my favourite pieces to give you an idea of how you can use them in your own projects.

The first image is a signature cloth for the Seacroft Tapestry Project in 2018. I used back stitch to trace the lines of handwritten signatures. The second is a workshop sample for a hand embroidered graffiti workshop in 2024. I used sten stitch to create the cat and HMS tag. Chain stitch has been used as a filling stitch on the shapes and satin stitch details give great areas of colour. The third image is a hand embroidered mini wreath from some recent festive workshops. Here I combined lots of different stitches layering them up. My favourite section is the eucalyptus leaves made using lazy daisy stitch.

If you would like to start working with different combinations of hand embroidery stitches I recommend getting a piece of patterned fabric in an embroidery hoop. Fill in the different areas of line and colour with different stitches, picking the one you think will fill that area the best. There are no rules when it comes to embroidery so just experiment and see what happens.

It’s been a busy few weeks for me after the Prism Textiles Edgelands exhibition in London. It was great to stay in London and meet up with other members. I also ran a fun workshop on hand embroidered graffiti. My graffiti carrot was a bit hit and my favourite thing I have stitched this year.

I’m halfway through my textile art techniques course with Leeds Libraries and I’m making a tote bag as I teach the course so people can see the techniques I’m using. This week I created a large piece of crazy patchwork using vintage fabrics.

You always see warnings about sewing over pins but I managed to sew through one this week! I use topstitch needles in my Pfaff Creative 3.0 as they are really hard wearing and work well for digital embroidery and sewing through thick layers of fabric. Turns out that it will also sew right through the head of a pin. I actually had to use an unpicker to take out the pin. Silly me, I won’t be doing that again.

I’m now in my happy place, adding hand embroidery to the piece of patchwork fabric. Using the patterns on the fabrics and creating more details with cotton perle threads.

It’s been good to have more time in the studio, revisiting the Fancy Goods pieces I started making in 2023. I’ve enjoyed having the time to watch YouTube and work with hand embroidery again. I’ve had so much time to focus on things that I enjoy doing which is a huge change from the busiest time of my freelance life last year.

For regular updates about upcoming workshops and events you can sign up to my monthly newsletter, and for cat pictures and work in progress follow me on Instagram.

Following on from my last post, Concept to Creation, I shared how use Rayon threads and digital embroidery to create some exhibition pieces. This week I thought I would share some of the most commonly used threads for my hand embroidered work.

I’m often asked about the best type of thread to use for different hand embroidery projects so I thought I would share some of the threads that I regularly use in my work. The thread I use often depends on that fabric I’m working with (and what I remembered to take with me!). Here are a few of the different types I have in my stash.

Good to Know… When using any thread it’s good to know what type of finish you want on the work, for example a thicker thread can produce really nice texture. You can also experiment with different types of thread to see how they will look against your chosen fabric. When you’re buying threads, where possible you should look at a single strand of the thread against your fabric, this is the best way to colour match as the whole reel looks different.

DMC Cotton Perle

Cotton Perle No 8 thread is 100% cotton, it has a distinctive twist and a slight sheen which gives it a lovely finish. This thread doesn’t get fluffy easily and is suitable for many types of hand embroidery. The heavier weight of this thread will give your project a raised texture and great definition. This comes in 80m balls and there are so many colours to choose from.

I started using this thread when I was given a ball in a mixed bag of vintage threads. I love to use it to add texture to my hand embroidered pieces and recently I’ve been experimenting with the different colours to build up layers.

DMC Stranded Cotton Embroidery Thread

DMC Stranded Cotton is made from long staple cotton which is mercerised twice to give the thread a lovely sheen. It’s made up of 6 strands which you can divide into different thicknesses depending on the finish you want for your project. It comes in huge variety of colours too.

I use this thread for my cross stitch and hand embroidery samples for my classes as the finish is great and I can get lots of different colours. Take care when separating the threads as it can get twisted if you cut off a really long piece. I tend to use it lengths of around 30cm.

Gutermann Hand Quilting Thread

I came across this 100% cotton thread a few years ago, I was looking for a thicker thread for some of my hand stitched projects. Gutermann Hand Quilting thread is a fine but strong 40 weight cotton. The thread has a special waxed finish which gives it added strength and it’s not prone to tangling like some other threads. There a 50 colours to choose from on 200m spools and a few years ago I was lucky enough to complete my collection.

I use this thread for all my tacking and utility sewing because of it’s durability. It’s also great for adding details like beading to a project. I recently started using it to stitch the maps from my daily exercise too and it’s becoming my thread of choice for lots of projects.

Anything Goes

I’e recommended some of the big brands of thread because I stitch every day but you can find a huge variety of threads in shops like The Works and from your local charity shop. Be bold and experiment with the threads you find to see what type of line they create and how you can use them in your projects.

If you want to wash the piece you’re making I do recommend getting the thread wet first to see if it’s colour fast, I’ve been burned by this a few times. Take care when storing vintage threads too, if they’ve been kept in a dirty environment they may contaminate your other threads.

***Please note that this is just my personal observation on the products I use regularly, everyone has their favourites and I recommend trying lots of different types to find the best one for you.***

In my last post, Finding Artistic Inspiration I shared how I find and record my sources of inspiration. I thought it would be great to show the next steps in creating one of the pieces of digital embroidery for my installation LS6.

I use specialist embroidery software to create my designs from drawings and photographs. There are lots of tweaks to make to an image to make it look right as an embroidery. Sometimes you need to play with the brightness, contrast and saturation of an image. It might look strange as a photo but it will make a great design file.

My software allows me to select the type and colour of threads for each design but I still love to look through my boxes of rayon thread. This means that I can find a great colour match and keep a colour story through the pieces I make for a particular piece of work.

A common misconception about digital embroidery is that you can just leave the machine to stitch the design and there’s no input from the artist. That would be brilliant but I need to be with the machine at every stage, changing colours and bobbins and troubleshooting as I go.

My designs are stitched out onto Solufleece fabric, a wash away fabric that leaves just the stitches behind. Before I wash away the fabric there are lots of threads to trim away, my curved embroidery scissors are perfect for this. Then the scary time arrives where you have to drop the piece into a sink of warm water.

I like to dab the wet embroideries with a towel before drying on the radiator because I’m impatient! They usually crinkle up but the rayon threads are easy to iron with a warm iron and some steam. Once dried and pressed, I trim the edges to get rid of any loose threads. Sometimes I just use my curved embroidery scissors and sometimes I use a rotary cutter to get the edge precise.

The finished design is part of LS6, an installation for the Prism Textiles Edgelands exhibition and sits alongside 8 graffiti embroideries. They took a total of 90 hours to stitch out plus all the trimming, washing, drying and cutting but I’m so pleased with the results.

You can find out more about the materials and equipment I use in my Tools of the Trade post and for regular updates about my practice you can follow me on Instagram.

In my previous post Notes From the Studio, I shared the work I’ve been creating for the Prism Textiles exhibition in April. I’m often asked about where I get the inspiration for my work and I thought it would be great to share where my inspiration comes from and how I record and use it.

These graffiti photos were taken in 2020 when we walked around our local area in Leeds. I took them using my phone, I always use the camera as a full screen so I can capture as much of the inspiration as possible. Photos can be easily edited if needed but I like to do this later at home.

When these images were taken, I started a sketchbook with samples and ideas, I even created some embroidery designs using my photographs. At the time I couldn’t see how they would come together to create a piece of work until the theme of Edgelands was chosen for the Prism exhibition. I immediately thought of those street edges between the houses and woodland and and started to stitch out the designs on my embroidery machine. The finished piece will be an installation of found objects and embroidered graffiti images.

Inspiration can come from the strangest places, I once got inspired to create a piece of work looking at powerlines in Leeds Train Station. I don’t always have access to a notebook because I’m out walking so I will often take notes on my phone about an idea. I’ve also made notes on a photo that I’ve taken on my phone.

I don’t use a sketchbook in the traditional sense as I find drawing doesn’t always help my creative process. My sketchbooks are a combination of photos, inspiration from museums and galleries and some drawings of ideas for work. I might also include the embroidery designs and samples of thread.

If you’d told me when I left uni that I would still be interested in making mood boards I would have laughed but they are also a helpful part of my process. They can bring together the main inspiration images/objects, a colour palette and materials/threads I might want to use.

I like to store all my photos in cloud storage so I can access them from my phone and laptop. I name the folders so I know what’s in there and all my similar ideas are grouped together. Sometimes that research might stay there for years, sometimes it never gets to the stage of sampling but you never know!

As you start to find your own inspiration, you will find a way of recording it that works for you. There is no right or wrong way to do this so try a few different ways and see how they work for you.

I’ve been spending as much time as I can in the studio, creating new pieces for the Prism Textiles exhibition in April. This year’s exhibition theme is Edgelands and my pieces explore the edges between streets and parkland where graffiti and litter are a common site.

It’s been great to work with my Pfaff Creative 3.0 embroidery machine again, it’s been in the cupboard since June last year. I’ve been working with rayon threads and solufleece to create embroidered graffiti. Once the interfacing is washed away, the design is made up of around 201,000 stitches holding each other together.

I’m looking forward to finishing this installation piece and creating a new plinth based piece inspired by my walks around Scalby Ness in Scarborough.

In between working on the digital embroideries, I’ve been creating a sample for the hand embroidered graffiti workshop I’m running as part of the Prism exhibition. This workshop will explore how to use different hand embroidery stitches and applique to create your own street art inspired designs. More details about my workshop and the other sessions we are running will be added to the group website soon.

For regular updates about upcoming workshops and events you can sign up to my monthly newsletter, and for cat pictures and work in progress follow me on Instagram.

Who are you and what do you do?

I’m Hayley, a textile artist and workshop facilitator living in Scarborough, North Yorkshire.

Explain what you do in less than 100 words…

I create artwork for exhibitions and private commissions. I work with other creative practitioners on community projects. I also teach embroidery, running classes in techniques like hand embroidery and applique. As well as working with textiles, I lead sessions with adults with a range of physical and learning disabilities where we experiment with everything from paint to collage. I love travelling around Yorkshire with my suitcase full of creativity.

Why do you do what you do?

I’ve always loved being creative and even at primary school I wanted to be an artist. I’m an accidental teacher and I started sharing my skills as a WI member nearly 15 years ago. I love helping people realise their creative potential and learn new skills.

How has your practice changed over time?

The work I make has definitely changed over time. Before my MA in textiles, everything was hand embroidered. During my time at Manchester School of Art I learned how to work with digital embroidery. This has changed how I translate my inspiration into finished pieces of work.

What work do you most enjoy doing?

I love creating assemblages and incorporating lots of different materials and techniques to create artwork. During my BA, I was an installation artist and I created larger scale pieces that used my own work and found objects.

What themes do you use in your work?

I explore themes like personal memories, mental health and heritage in my work. I’ve created pieces about my lived experience of depression and OCD. I also respond to museum collections, helping to bring objects to life. I’ve worked with Whitby Museum and The Thackray Museum of Medicine.

What jobs have you worked in other than being and artist?

I’ve worked in retail and financial services admin prior to being a freelance artist. In December 2023 I celebrated 11 years of freelance life.

What memorable responses have you had to your work?

I’ve received lots of wonderful messages about my work exploring mental health. People have emailed to say that my work made them realise they aren’t alone in the way they feel. That was particularly touching. I also get emails saying thank you for reminding them of things from their childhood. In my teaching, people thank me for getting them back into embroidery and inspiring them to create new things.

What’s your favourite or most inspirational place?

That’s a tough question, it depends on the work I’m doing. I would say the most consistent inspiration comes from the Yorkshire Coast. My work might directly link to the things I see on my walks or the sea air and walks on the beach help me to centre myself and relax so I can create new work exploring other themes.

What research do you do?

I love visiting museums and heritage sites, they have so much inspiration from Victorian laundries to vintage textiles. I take photos on my phone as it’s always to hand. I sometimes make notes on my phone or in my journal. I occasionally sketch but I have to be in the right headspace for that.

What’s the best piece of advice you’ve been given?

On my art foundation course in the 90s my tutor William said… “As an artist in the modern age, if someone asks you if you can do something you say yes then Google it” This has always stuck with me and reminded me that by researching and stepping outside your comfort zone you can do so much.

What tools couldn’t you live without?

That’s a hard one to answer as I use so many in my work. My top nine are…

Elbesee table clamp

Curved embroidery scissors

Prym glue pen

Cotton perle threads

Vintage fabrics

Pilot Frixion pens

Pfaff Creative 3.0 embroidery machine

Rayon thread

Wash away stabilser

What advice would you give someone who wanted to try hand embroidery?

Embroidery isn’t as hard to learn as you might think, you can learn some simple stitches which will create exciting pieces of work. The key is to practice so that you get used to where to hold your hoop and how to anchor the threads. Embroidery is just a series of loops help down in different ways which you will pick up the more you stitch.

All you need to get started is some fabric, embroidery threads, an embroidery hoop, a needle and some scissors. You can use old clothing or tote bags for your fabric and embroidery hoops, needles and threads can be picked up at charity shops and high street shops. Nail scissors are great for embroidery as they allow you to get closer to the fabric to cut loose threads.

YouTube has definitely changed the way we learn to embroider, being able to watch a video of the process instead of those little pictures is amazing. There are definitely some stitches that are harder to learn. I’ve only ever done 2 perfect bullion knots in my life, in 2013 and in 2023. I confidently predict that if I try again in 2033 it will be pefect!

For regular updates about upcoming workshops and events you can sign up to my monthly newsletter, and for cat pictures and work in progress follow me on Instagram.

A new year is here and I’m looking forward to seeing what 2024 has in store. Last year was a very busy year for me, the busiest of my career. I ran lots of projects with Artlink West Yorkshire. I also started working as the arts project worker at The Old Parcels Office in Scarborough.

In December, I turned 44 and celebrated 11 years of freelance life. Things have changed since those early days as an artist and tutor and I’ve worked with some incredible people and organisations. I was excited to send my 500^th freelance invoice. Sad, I know but it was a real milestone for me as a freelance artist.

During my winter break, I’ve been reflecting on the last year and spending more time in the studio. It was interesting to reflect on the work I produced last year and think about new ideas.

My role at The Old Parcels Office continues until spring and I’m looking forward to working on the upcoming exhibition programme. You can find out more about this great space on their website. I’m really enjoying working with the artists and trustees to bring the exhibitions together.

If you’re in London in April, you can visit the Prism Textiles exhibition Edgelands. The exhibition runs from 19 to 29 April at The Art Pavilion, Mile End and is supported by Tower Hamlets. I’m currently working on 2 submission pieces for the exhibition with very different interpretations of the theme.

I’ve also got some workshops and courses with Leeds Central Library coming up in March, April and September. The workshops and courses will range from beginners to more advanced stitchers and teach skills like hand embroidery, appliqué, and mixed media stitch.

For regular updates about upcoming workshops and events you can sign up to my monthly newsletter, and for cat pictures and work in progress follow me on Instagram.